Journey into Light.

In the final days of Cape Town, I was flooded with gratitude from the lessons I have learned through the history of South Africa.  A huge piece of experiencing the crisis in South Africa has been to explore the depths of apartheid. It’s hard to believe that 20 years ago this nation was in the throws of severe segregation and a legal system that oppressed the majority of their citizens. 

You may be wondering how the nation shifted gears and adopted democracy without causing more turmoil.  After the ban of apartheid, South Africans adopted a form of restorative justice to return the nation to peace.  This system was called the Truth and Reconciliation Commission (TRC). The TRC was set up by the Government of National Unity to help deal with the violence and human rights abuses under apartheid. It was used as a way to shift the nation from apartheid to a free democracy and was seen by many as having crucial significance in the healing of the nation.

But first let me recap on Apartheid so you will understand the impact of the TRC…

Apartheid took place from 1948-1993 and was enforced by the National Party of South Africa. This system created legal racial segregation where minority rule by white individuals was upheld and the non-whites were stripped of all rights and privileges. In 1958 all black people were deprived of their citizenship.  Education, medical care and all public services were segregated by the government, which provided black people with services much inferior to whites.

Violence and internal resistance was the natural result as well as the prohibition of resistance and imprisoning of anti-apartheid leaders, such as Nelson Mandela.  The end of Apartheid began in 1990 and concluded in multi-racial democratic elections in 1994, which were won by the African National Congress, under Nelson Mandela. Although Apartheid is over it continues to impact this nation through society and politics.

At the helm of the TRC was Archbishop Desmond Tutu.  As the chairman, his goal was to help South Africans come to terms with the extreme troubled past.  The TRC was established to investigate the violations that took place between 1960 and 1994, to provide support and reparation to victims and their families, and to compile a full and objective record of the effects of apartheid on South African society.  Based on the Promotion of National Unity and Reconciliation Act, No. 34 of 1995, the TRC was empowered to grant amnesty to those charged with committing abuses during Apartheid.

There were two requirements: the crimes had to have been politically motivated and the entire and whole truth was to be told by the person seeking amnesty. In total 7112 people applied for amnesty; 5392 people were refused amnesty and 849 were granted amnesty, and some fit in the category “withdrawn.”

But really, what did the TRC stand for?

You may remember the story of Amy Biehl’s tragic death. She was a white American Fulbright scholar living in Cape Town as an anti-apartheid activist. She was killed by a black mob while driving through a black township, Gugulethu (just steps away from where myself and the OTM team slept during our homestay).  Amy’s parents used the TRC as an instrument of peacemaking and a way to heal after their daughter’s death. Her father stated, “The most important vehicle of reconciliation is open and honest dialogue...we are here to reconcile a human life which was taken without an opportunity for dialogue. When we are finished with this process we must move forward with linked arms.”  This is just one example of the triumph of the human spirit in the face of tragedy.  The TRC created a bridge for people of any color to unite, to reconcile the past and to progress with hope for a brighter future.

On so many levels the story of apartheid and the TRC can act as our teacher. Desmond Tutu told South Africans during the TRC that, “To forgive is not just to be altruistic. It is the best form of self-interest. It is also a process that does not exclude hatred and anger. These emotions are all part of being human. You should never hate yourself for hating others who do terrible things: the depth of your love is shown by the extent of your anger.”

I then ask myself, where in my life have I not forgiven? If Mandela forgave the people who imprisoned him for 27 years, leaving prison with more grace and virtue than when he entered, then surely I can forgive those in my life.  But often the forgiveness seems so challenging because it’s not others we must forgive, but ourselves.  The TRC required the candidates for amnesty told 100% of the truth.  We see in this example how truth and forgiveness walk hand in hand. Truth is the crucial starting point, but to reconcile in hopes for peace, there must be forgiveness. In forgiving we surrender, we make a choice to not carry the burden and we choose self-transformation instead of motionlessness.  

 Through yoga we learn that any and all separation within self or self to other is the root cause of suffering.  Our judgment or illusory thoughts (the story we create about ourselves or others) often feed this gap making it more and more difficult to find union, clarity and ultimately peace.  So I ask myself, how can I use the history of this nation, from Apartheid to the TRC, to influence my personal inner-journey? Or to heal my inner-apartheid?

I begin by embracing forgiveness of self. Allowing my authentic diversity to shine and feeling “free to be"…just like the South Africans continue to celebrate the rich diversity of their land, their people, and their past.  I can also remember what Mandela told his nation, “We are all masters of our destiny. A better future depends on all of us lending a hand - your hand, my hand."  Service is about you and me; it’s about giving back as much as I can and knowing it will be returned in ways unimaginable. While in the townships I kept reflecting on a parallel crisis in my town of Newport, Rhode Island. As I stared at the corrugated tin shacks and the children playing in the dirt, I was reminded of the massive homeless population in the states and in Newport. Why did I need to leave my hometown to become aware of the crisis in my backyard?  I notice the shift in perspective that occurred in me while in SA – a land that also required their locals to open their minds, hearts and begin to awaken.

In sum, what I can tell you about the OTM experience abroad was that it is priceless. There was no limit to the space created for me to transform.  There was no boundary of LOVE.  Yet there was interminable freedom to go deep and to love BIG.  And for me, Africa is where I woke up. 

and more...

    Baby at day care - for most of the day while we were painting the outside of the building, she was laying on this dirty mattress wanting attention.

    our audience while painting….

    more local audience….

    table mountian…this is where the hike was getting reallllly hard!!

    at the top!!

    me at the top...

    with the children from Earthchild Project…yoga, drumming, painting…bliss :)

    baby orphan at Baphumelele in Khayelitsha township

    Nelson Mandela's cell at Robben Island for 18 years.

    Khayelitsha corner. Yes, those are people's homes.

    Khayelitsha on hot summer day.

Khayelitsha neighborhood children…they love the camera. Children swarm around us any time our bus arrives in the township. We did not know these children.

                             Baphumelele orphanage.

mom, this is for you….

my mom made this pretty pink dress - among many others :) Went to a precious 4 yr old named xhlmissa.
xxx

You can leave Africa, but it never leaves you.

Unfortunately the schedule of my week has kept me from checking in and posting my daily experience. Our days have been beginning with yoga at 6.30 followed by a quick breakfast, shower and onto the day.  Once we return home in the evening we eat dinner followed by a processing session that ends near midnight. Needless to say, I am stoked to fill you in on the past week in Cape Town.  My days and nights are bleeding together so bear with me…

What I will tell you is that our NGO partners are all absolutely exceptional and I am beyond excited to have had the opportunity to support their dreams. Please now that your money and in-kind donations went directly to the partners I will be telling you about. To recap, when we first arrived we spent the day at the Baphumelele Orphange in Khayleitsha, home to 180 children. We celebrated the grand opening of the South African Whole Grain Bread Project on the grounds of Baph (I mentioned in an earlier post the details of this partner.) In the following days we spent time with the children, teaching yoga and doing other fun activities that they enjoy. The children have boundless energy and love...jumping on each of us offering warm embraces and cultivating an enormous amount of joy in my heart.

We met with our partner's at GOLD, Generations of Leaders Discovered, who takes children from the townships (impoverished areas you've seen in my images) and educates them on how to be a "peer leader" in their community. Their belief is that children will be more likely to approach a peer with their challenges and questions (regarding sex, drugs, HIV etc.) then an adult. It was interesting when they expressed their desire to recruit the leaders of the gangs as these are the ones who hold power amongst their friends and who have natural "leading" ability. GOLD partners with other local community-based organizations, ngo's or faith-based organizations and extends their support. We spent the morning painting a local pre-school in the township and then visited a school where we watched a film called Themba. It shocked me that I was surrounded by school-aged children from 5-13 while watching about rape, alcoholism, HIV/AIDS, death, adultery etc. But the hard core truth is that THIS IS THEIR LIVES. They screen these types of films as an educational tool teaching the kids on how to stay responsible.

The next morning we visited the District 6 museum, the non-profit center for educating on apartheid was an emotional experience. Our tour guide, who started the museum, had his home taken from him and experienced the devastation of this period like many others. District 6 is an area of Cape Town that was a lively neighborhood where segregation did not exist - whites, blacks and coloreds (colored represents individuals of mixed races and totally PC in South Africa to label races this way) lived in peace and joy. The images of this area prior to apartheid remind me of New Orleans. Until the National Party/Apartheid gov. made an example of this area by tearing away people's homes and forcing them to leave. The land laid dormant, except for the few churches and mosques that were left standing. Until recently when the government is looking to find the people who owned the land and rebuild their homes. Unfortunately they have been over-promising and under-delivereing and the project is going at an ultra slow pace. But change is in the works and for that there is hope.
We spent time on Thursday evening with our partner called Earthchild Project - a program that teaches children, through a school program, practical and experiential life skills such as yoga, mediation, self-awareness, sustainable gardening, and worm farming. We were blessed to have an evening at Camps Bay High School with the local yogis and Earthchild founders, Noks and Janna. What an evening connecting with yogis who despite any differences speak the same language as myself and fellow yogis. Seane delivered a powerful as always talk, Suzanne joined a local drummer for a Kirtan and we danced and brought our voices together in song.

So on that note I must talk about the song!!! The rhythm of this nation that beats through everyones hearts and is heard through their voices. We have had many a drum circle the past week with children and adults of ALL ages. They use song to teach, to gather, to express and to feel. I'm thrilled to say I just left greenmarket and purchased the one thing I wanted to return home with - my first drum :)) So, for those of you in Newport, beware we may setting up a weekly drum circle.

A hike up Table Mountain was a gift from our leaders - it was also the MOST challenging hike I have ever experienced in my life. Camelback Mtn in AZ is like a walk in the park compared to Table Mtn. But we made it in about 2 hours and we were able to relish in the beauty of Cape Town from above the clouds (or table cloth as Cape Townians call it.) We took the cable car down. (Thank God!)

We reconnected with Earthchild on Friday to paint their new facility that was purchased by OTM. It's a facility with beautiful wood floors that will be their yoga room. Noks and Janna were overwhelmed with the sincerest gratitude for the vision of their dreams to be manifested. It was so darling watching the children meditate and tell us how yoga is so good for them because it brings them peace. We painted the outside of the building together bringing even more color into their community through union and joy. Of course we ended in a drum circle, singing, dancing and then in a paint-war. Suzanne completely surrendered as she became a human canvas for the kids - resembling an alien. It was awesome! (pics to follow!)

There is so much more to tell but I had to give you a post to describe what the days have been like. I have yet to fill you in on the meeting of the Linawo Children's Home (beautiful family-style orphan home housing 15 children - one with Cerebal Palsy.) AND my overnight stay in Gugulethu, another township in the Cape Flats, with an African family. I was grateful to have my own bed to sleep in but was not so psyched for the 2 mice under my bed and my arm covered in bites the next morning :) And yesterday, we experienced a local Christian church in Gugulethu and a visit into the real "shacks" to see a sangoma - or traditional Xhosa healer that accesses your ancestors. Unfortunately I couldn't get photos as I had a bit of claustrophobia in the shack. But one of our group was given a certain type of bark to boil and inhale as a remedy for her migraines. Also, the local men were gathered to receive free alcohol from the sangoma, which is a sign of gratitude from the healer because life is "good." The alcohol allows the sangoma to talk with the ancestors - or so they say!

So the above is bunch of stories about what I am externally involved in - but the internal process of moving through this land is way more intriguing and powerful for me. This land is one of stark contrast - the stunning Cape Town city, shops, beautiful South Africans, restaurants etc. and 5 miles away you will experience the most devastated living conditions you could ever witness in your life (in the townships.) But despite all of that, I have met many many individuals who are committed to continuing the follow-up work from apartheid and bringing awareness to what is happening in the townships and the crisis that has been perpetuated from the years of apartheid…such as extreme poverty and HIV/AIDS. Yet at the same time, I have met a few individuals, mainly white who have never stepped into the townships and perceive it as a danger zone labeling the people as barbarians or animals. The segregation is by no means over. Even my colored taxi driver this morning said that there is still fear within him to enter the townships because of the violence blacks would inflict on the colored people. I mean really, can you even imagine living in a place where the government makes it illegal (like, you would go to jail) if you had ANY involvement with a person of another race. And the government controlled the media so well, that the white youth and adolescents were not even aware of what was going on. In one instance, a local newspaper brought light to the separation in a exposed article. Supposedly the morning of print, the government pulled the article off the front page leaving a large blank space on the front page of the paper. Talk about the white elephant, eh?

To make a long story short - what a lesson for each of us to see where in our lives we segregate. Where in ourselves do we find apartheid? And how you can you make a difference to bridge any gap within yourself and bring more compassion, more peace, more empathy and more patience into your life. I am working on this myself and am grateful for the lessons I am learning from this land. I am certain it will continue to move through me through this next week and the months and years to follow. I know now why people say "You can leave Africa, but it never leaves you." 

images from khayelitsha

Day Two - If freedom is the destination no walk is too far

Robben Island is like the Alcatraz of South Africa. It's the prison most famous for its containment of anti-apartheid political prisoners from 1962-1991, most famously Nelson Mandela. I visited yesterday via ferry and was surrounded by visitors representing numerous cultures and races. There were a few important things that stood out for me on the island that I wanted to share….

Robben Island is not just an island to be toured. It's an island which inhabits many ex-politcial prisoners, who now work as tour guides on the island, and their families. You may be thinking why someone would choose to live on the site of their imprisonment. Upon entering the island, you are greeted by a sign that asks you to shift your perspective on what you are about to witness.  In other words, it asks that instead of formulating the natural sympathy for the trauma and devastation of the time period and prisoners, bear witness to the strength of the human spirit that triumphed in the face of tremendous adversity. Beautiful, eh? It's the "right" of all of the ex-prisoners to tell their story, to not forget the fight for freedom. Second, Robben Island is a gift from mother nature and a Nature Conservatory. Not only is it a breeding area for the African Penguin on the island you will find various other wildlife, including one last ostrich and over 100 bird species.  The views were outstanding…pics to come soon.

Something else that stood out…when we met with our first tour guide, we were told that Robben Island had a different name given by the ex-political prisoners. They called it University. When Nelson Mandela and his contemporaries landed on the island, it was like a political meeting of the minds. They had committed themselves to self development in spite of their incarceration.  And it became the best education prisoners could have dreamed of. Funny that the National Party would find it wise to place ALL of the brilliant political minds in the same place and think they wouldn't be plotting the demise of the National Party.  In addition, they even moved the rapists and murderers OUT OF the maximum security and into the medium security facility to secure the maximum for the political prisoners. Clearly they were more fearful of the escape of a political anti-apartheid mind more so than the actions of a convict.

Mandela and other prisoners worked 8 hours a day 5 days a week in the limestone quarry.  When freed from the prison, Mandela held a reunion on the island at the quarry. Each ex-political prisoner placed a stone in a pile (pictured above).  The pile of stones represents each individual's journey as a prisoner and the strength of their spirit to find forgiveness for the people of their nation.  This pile of stones should be a reminder to all that visible or cultural differences seen by our eye hold no depth.  The truth is always beneath the surface and when we live in separation from that truth, we find suffering.  

What made Mandela the profound leader he was, was indeed his personal mastery developed on Robben Island. Without that time, who knows what role he would have taken in developing this incredible nation  towards freedom.  Mandela lived by his virtue of forgiveness, his ability to shift perspective and do what needed to be done to unite a nation that lived separation and suffering as far back as South Africans can remember….some say since the day the first white Europeans stepped foot on the soil in the 1400's.

So the lesson from the day - despite our ability to ignore the biases, judgements and prejudices that are engrained in each of us, we must be present and acknowledge what truly exists in order to move away from it.  South African's have no where near the politically correct behavior that American's do. They are actually nervous that their open talk about "races" may offend us. But they are open about the fact that there are cultural differences. And so far on this journey, I have yet to meet one local that isn't continuously working towards bridging any continued apartheid/separation between the races.  It's extraordinary to watch. We were told by a panel of locals on our first day that if South Africa had one word it would be "opportunity." It was only 15 years ago that apartheid ended - that each race was separated and that only whites had privilege. What testimony to the strength of the human spirit!